On this bright September morning as London Fashion Week SS12 kicks off, Florida born turned London local, designer Corrie Nielsen’s SS12 show ‘Arbiter Elegantiarum’ was the perfect way to greet the day.
Meaning ‘a judge or authority in matters of taste’ Nielsen’s feminine yet constructed collection was just that, an elegant, crisp breath of fresh air.
Hush settled over the eager crowd amidst first day nerves and a frantic buzz for seats as models took to the runway from within architecturally structured dresses, wading down the catwalk as if caught in a soft spring haze under the muted bulbs that hung from the ceiling of the Old Sorting Office on New Oxford Street.
Inspired by Oscar Wilde’s darkly romantic tale of eternal beauty ‘The Picture of Dorian Gray’ and juxtaposed with a modern spin on the Japanese silhouette, Nielsen showcased arresting pleats and folds, with Victorian infused high neck collars in clean angular lines against volumous shoulders and draping oriental jackets.
Mixed with gentlemanly masculine tailoring, from within a contained palette popped rich blues, bursting lime greens and muted metallics onto a refreshing twist of peplum proportions.
Adept at merging modern silhouettes to historical aesthetics, this one time graduate of Central Saint Martins is creating a signature style for herself, with a previous collection that saw her marry grand Elizabethan silhouettes to the aesthetic of 40s and 50s French inspired couture.
And as Nielsen takes us back in time once again with her second solo catwalk show, we’re in love with dresses that capture the body, sitting almost as wearable art pieces ready to be draped in Japanese capes with bowed waists.
TEXT: Marissa Baxter
IMAGES: Christopher Dadey courtesy of forwardpr