Collection Notes: DAY 1 – Saturday October 4th
Bird on a Wire
The relationship between hunter and prey is a fascinating one. Rooted not only in the animal kingdom between two different species, the hun is present between creatures of the same species. The hunter so dominating in a situation of power, transforms instantly to become frail and weak when faced with a more powerful creature.
This thin line of transformation is what the collection explores.
A clash of frailty and power is analyzed through transparencies versus stiff, shiny fabrics and spikes and softness whilst keeping a silhouette of a creature ready to either run or jump from its opponent.
Atelier Jo Baaklini blends artful storytelling with crafted production, producing Prêt-à-Porter clothing with an appeal to both men & women.
Inspired by an eclectic range of sources, from Japonisme to 80s aesthetics in cinéma, this collection explores juxtaposition; contrasting light cottons with heavy wools, dark hues next to bright colours, and playful painted patterns on functional, straight cuts to create an ensemble that is simultaneously nostalgic and forward looking.
Viento y tierra, wind and earth, describes this collection in two words. There are no colors, and no prints. Just layers of translucent flowing pleats juxtaposed with rough textured surfaces, all in different shades of off-white, cascading from the body. Taking inspiration from dance and forest nymphs from my previous collection, as well as my travels to Sri Lanka where the school children wear all white uniforms to keep cool in the hot breeze and most are barefoot, Viento y tierra consists mainly of unique one-of pieces, made to enjoy in the sun or in the rain, with dancing feet and a free spirit.
The Emperor 1688
For Spring Summer 2015 The Emperor 1688 looks to memory, memory of travel, memories of adventure, to a time where smart phones and pictures were not as instant as they are now. The focus of the collection shifts to a time when our memory was the only source we had to remind us of our adventures abroad. Specific colours, textures and fibres trigger a memory once you are home, back to your urban life.
This season the Golkar brothers look specifically to Monsieur Yves Saint Laurant and his adventures in Morocco and his lifelong obsession with the North African climate. He returned home to Paris with a sense of romance he attached to Morocco.
The Golkar brothers looked specifically at colours that are synonymous with Yves Saint Laurant’s Morocco, from the blues of Le Jardin Majorelle, to the earth tones of the deserts of North Africa and the dusty tones of the summer skies. Using prints and woven fabrics that trigger a subtle memory of North African Art and Architecture.
House of Ronald
This season, Ronald has turned his eye to nature for inspiration. Artfully transforming wood textures and patterns into motifs for his printed fabrics, he has created designs heavily influenced by architectural shapes. The outfits are very structured, with sharp edges and cutouts, while the overall silhouette is 1970s inspired. The overall feel of the collection is very feminine and airy, yet bold and seductive. It features a range of silks, cottons, crepes, and satins, in a palette of neutrals, gold, aqua, and greys. The result is a very modern rendition of “nature elements”, transformed into a striking display of printed tops, skirts, trousers, and dresses.
MARAL believes that “life is in colors”… she has been adept in playing with colors and its hues, and their interplay has fascinated her. This is amply displayed in her collections which are bright and with rich. The effective use of a neutral white base allows the rich colors to stand out and make a statement in her entire collection.
Her Persian roots can be witnessed, as she blends its traditional and royal designs with a contemporary touch. Her creations while being modern, also has the hint of the glory of Persian traditions. The collection is created in resplendent silks with striking silhouettes. With delicate handiwork and excellent finishing, each ensemble is mesmerizing.
With the designs arising from an innate sense of style, understanding of colors and an eye for detail, Maral aims to bring out the inner goddess in every woman through her magnificent collection. For Maral each and every ensemble is a work of art.
Jean Louis Sabaji
The scenario Jean-Louis Sabaji planned out this season was far from being romantic; but concentrated on birds, their plumage and the skin beneath all the feathers.
This is the point where an outbreak of Jean-Louis’s famous techniques in one collection which simultaneously included silicone, unfinished organza, beading and braiding.
Collection Notes: Day 2, Sunday October 5th
For Spring Summer 2015, Taller Marmo combines influences of the oriental West with occidental influences from the East. Moved by Marchesa Casati at the beginning of the
20th Century, Talitah Getty in Morocco, and Googoosh from an Iranian pre-evolution in the 1970’s, the collection captures the culture and feel of those two distinctive eras.
This Season, Riccardo Audisio & Yago Goicoechea, introduced sleek silhouettes within the collection, adding a 1970’s touch and incorporating early 1900’s ornamented detailing.
The collection, predominantly composed of body conscious evening dresses was intended to bring about a resort lifestyle feel, consisting of cocktail dresses, kaftans and swimsuits.
Taller Marmo’s SS15 dresses come in a variety of different lengths to symbolize the sunrise, the morning, the afternoon, the sunset and the night on the dunes of the desert, an indication of exoticness. The intarsia techniques were employed by sewing together the sun and the half-moon with the rest of the dress to bring about a special and refined finishing.
Hasan Hejazi’s collection for Spring/Summer ‘15, presented in partnership with Audi, features a clean fresh colour palette in luxurious embroidered fabrics and silks. The show will feature some of Hasan’s favourite archive pieces, famously worn by his celebrity clientele, as well as an all-new collection for his inaugural show at Fashion Forward. The show’s highlight will be the premiere of a unique dress inspired by Audi to mark Hasan’s debut. Renowned for statement gowns that demand attention, this one-off piece has been created in collaboration with Audi and Hasan has taken his inspiration from Audi’s design cues of purity, intrigue, creativity, sophistication and originality.
”Smoke and Mirrors” is the SS2015 Dany Tabet Couture collection METAL SAND SUN AND FOSSIL
It is a journey to a modern-world desert, but not one full of magical stories of traders and treasure hunters…
The Dany Tabet Desert is a place where the harnessed energies of precious metals is ruling the world, where Mother Earth is ravaged every day in hope of discovering fossil energy, where humble caravans leave to provide room for the tanks, and where shy stars lose their sparkle behind the mirror effect of bombs.
My desert is no place for an adventurer or pioneer.
My desert is an oriental kaleidoscope where no man will find an oasis to rest.
This Season, Endemage draws inspiration from Zanzibar, famous for its beautiful beaches and tropical scenery, which was the main brilliance for this collection. Zanzibar was part of the Sultanate of Oman and has strongly influenced the Omani culture through the beautiful vibrant colors, prints, and fabrics, which the Zakwani sisters have elegantly incorporated into their SS15 collection. The collection features a range of off-shoulder garments, ruffles and flowy hemlines composed of white, lilac and teal colour palette. Endemage have embellished this with patterns of leaves and pineapples using embroidery and lace with details of pearls and sequins. Using a mixture of signature organza, net, lace and a customized Endemage embroidered fabric has created an indulgent, feminine and unique collection.
Season Four represents Sultan’s fourth consecutive FFWD season. A graduate of Central Saint Martin’s, the highly celebrated Kuwaiti / Indo designer launched his own label in 2008 and in 2012 became the first Kuwaiti designer to show at London Fashion Week. Sultan’s superior imagination for his new collection, named “Infinite Days & Infinite Nights” is inspired by the iconic W Retreat & Spa – Maldives, re-interpreting its white sand beaches and turquoise lagoons, vibrant house-reef, rich aquatic life and playfully incorporating embroideries and prints referencing local Maldivian reefs and wildlife.
“On a trip to Lebanon, Zareena visited the Jeita Grotto, and was amazed at how nature would create what she calls one of the natures most creative features. The inspiration for the collection comes from nature’s ability to deliver beautiful scenery from random single creations when put together in a magical way.
Zareena’s main theme is abstract shapes and lines that become works of art when combined and placed on the designs in an artistic manner. Zareena’s sense of placement and choice of colors are marks of her brand, that any enthusiast would recognize. Zareena does not like to confine herself to certain colors, therefore, within any of her collections you will see a wide range of daring color combinations. The fabrics are always have the sense of flow and femininity in them. She uses natural fabrics for her collections.
Following the theme, Zareena has three groups of designs within the collection, the whites, which portray nature’s beauty personified in flower formations, the abstract formations with it’s cornucopia of colors, and the golds, nature’s ultimate precious belonging.
The collection preview includes 50 creations.”
Collection Notes: Day 3, Monday October 6th
This collection does not claim to be ethereal but it attempts to capture all that is. Prints of rock formations and plastic wrap on cotton and silk, flowing floor length skirts in magic mint and bra tops in air superiority blue, wrap dresses in crêpe or wide leg pants in sheer georgette. Men in straight silhouettes, women too. Ethereal Spring 2015 is a collection inspired by all that is “too perfect for this world”.
This Spring/Summer season, Asudari explores notions of untying the past, playfulness and freeing the self through their signature digital prints and geometric patterns. Throughout the collection, bows provide a strong motif illustrating the human desire to unlock memories, process past events and unbind the chords that keep us tied to repressive emotions. The bow appears in various guises, proportions and states of formality. They are whole and fragmented, traditional and loosely tied culminating in undone bows flowing loosely down garments in streams of ribbon. Aside from the digital prints, prints are translated through the use of embroidery, paillettes and 3D printing.
Contributing to that notion of relaxed freedom, parts of the collection are rendered in satins, silks and chiffons within a colour palette that encapsulates the mood of the season.
Madiyah Al Sharqi
This season Al Sharqi follows the signature influences of the 70’s by introducing elegant off-shoulder pieces, ruffles and billowing sleeves, drawing inspiration from her muse; Marie Antoinette. Her Spring/Summer collection features an array of garments, from gowns to sleek separates by incorporating effortless silhouettes composed of a fresh color palette in lavender, peach, khaki and white tones. Al Sharqi’s custom use of layering fabrics such as jacquards, crepe and lace continues to be the signature of the brand within this collection, luxuriated with the use of embellishments composed of unique crystals and carefully selected stones.
Raised in a family that highly regards and appreciates art, Ava Hashemi drew the inspiration behind this collection from the middle-eastern art and architecture. The mirror-like embellishments in this collection resemble the mirror works on the ceiling of her grandparent’s house.
Since this is the first collection Hâshè is showcasing in Dubai, the collection aims to capture the spirit of Dubai; hence the use of vibrant colors and structured silhouettes.
This collection is named “Reflection” since Ava believes it’s a reflection of her background and childhood.
For her Spring Summer 2015 collection, Ayad offers a range of options and garments that come in a variety of clean and feminine cuts, the key being simplicity. Her range includes a combination of gazar organza, jacquard and jersey in fresh block colours including sunny yellow, lilac, silver, navy blue, and hints of nude undertones. The silhouettes are a combination of classics re-engineered, voluminous skirts with matching fitted tops and of course her signature crop top re-introduced in this collection with a twist.
Ceremony woman has always been a classy, cosmopolitan character. The collection is active and international, a merger of east and west. It is evening-centric, fluid gowns, cigarette trousers, ladylike cocktail frocks and swooshing floor-length dresses.
While dreaming up spring colors and silhouettes, shades appeared in romantic nude silk and silk chiffons, Royal Blue and Russian Rolette Red raw silk, and of course white and black both in tulle, silk again and French Lace.
The inspiration behind this collection comes from a space odyssey, neo classic imagery, cloning and sci- fi movies but also from love stories. It is like a waltz in space.
I looked at alien-like deep sea creatures with transparent bodies, droid space soldiers and cloning and mixed them with drama and romance.
The colour palette is mainly white, with various textures such as lace, tulle, linens, ribbons and ceramics creating an effect that is futuristic and minimal yet romantic and intricate at the same time.